Order a caña (small beer) or tinto de verano (red wine with soda) and get a free tapa. It's the local way.
The Tapas Scene
Totana (toh-TAH-nah) is a proper pueblo, not a tourist spot. The tapas scene is about locals, not fancy food.
Expect simple bars with plastic chairs, football on TV, and families chatting loudly. It's casual, loud, and fun.
Tapas range from €1.50 to €4, and most places give you a free tapa with a drink. A caña (small beer) costs about €1.50-€2, so you can eat well for under €10.
Best Tapas Bars
These are my go-to spots. They're all in the centre, within walking distance.
Bar El Rincón
€A no-frills bar on Calle Mayor. Their pipirrana (tomato, pepper, and tuna salad) is the best in town. Order a caña and you'll get it free. Address: Calle Mayor 12, Totana.
La Tasca de Pepe
€€Slightly fancier, with creative tapas like morcilla (blood sausage) with apple. Try their patatas bravas (spicy potatoes). Good for groups. Address: Plaza de la Constitución 5, Totana.
Bar Los Amigos
€Tiny bar near the market. Their tortilla española (Spanish omelette) is thick and gooey. Grab a standing spot at the bar. Address: Calle San Antonio 3, Totana.
Mesón El Cortijo
€€For heartier tapas like grilled chorizo or lomo (pork loin). Wooden decor and a cosy feel. Address: Carretera de Alhama 8, Totana.
Local Tips
Bars get lively from 8pm onwards. Lunchtime tapas exist but are quieter. Evenings are when the atmosphere picks up.
Don't ask for the tapa menu straight away. Order a caña or vino (wine), and they'll bring a free tapa. Then you can order more if you want.
Totana gets very hot in summer. Many bars have air conditioning, but check before sitting inside. Outdoor seating is popular in the evening.